TOD’S, ITALIAN LUXURY AS STATE OF THE ART, MATERIAL AND EXPRESSIVE POWER

At Villa Necchi Campiglio, during Milan Men’s Fashion Week, Tod’s presented the Spring/Summer 2027 men’s collection, “The Italian Wardrobe”. Not a simple sequence of garments, but a very precise story of living the Italian way: sober, measured, natural, built around the quality of things done well.

The interesting point is exactly this. Tod’s doesn’t seek a spectacular effect, doesn’t force the story, doesn’t chase excess. It works instead on a form of elegance that belongs to the most authentic Italian culture: the pleasure of material, lightness, detail, of the garment you recognize not because it shouts, but because it is built with intelligence.

The heart of the collection is the Pashmy project, an extremely soft and light leather, conceived as the highest expression of Tod’s research on materials. The name recalls pashmina, and not by chance the symbolic garment of the season is a suede shirt so light it can pass through a ring. It is a simple but very strong image: luxury not as weight, ostentation or rigidity, but as softness, precision and comfort.

On this material some classics of the Tod’s wardrobe take shape: the Bomber Brera, the Castello Jacket, the Solferino Shirt. Garments that interpret an idea of menswear that is relaxed, elegant, contemporary. There is no nostalgia, but continuity. There is no folklore, but identity.

Matteo Tamburini said he worked on the idea of Italian dressing, starting also from the reference to “Viaggio in Italia”, Luigi Ghirri’s photographic project of the 1980s. An important reference, because it allows the collection to be read outside the most predictable postcard of Italianness. Not the cliché Italy, but one made of inner landscapes, light, memory, measure, everyday gestures.

The palette also follows this direction. Earth colors, from beige to cocoa, from ochre to warmer tones, dialogue with Mediterranean shades such as riviera blue and pearl gray. It is a wardrobe that seems designed to cross different places, seasons and moments without losing consistency.

Alongside clothing, Tod’s also reinforces its most recognizable codes. The Red Dot sneaker introduces a new idea of urban luxury: fine materials, light construction, elastic lacing, extralight sole and that red dot on the heel that becomes a sign of belonging to the brand’s world.

The Gommino, instead, remains one of the strongest emblems of Made in Italy according to Tod’s. For this season it is updated with a leather detail that recalls the closure of the Greca Belt. The same element also enters the ultralight loafer, built with soft leathers and a flexible structure.

The overall message is clear: Italian luxury today doesn’t need to become loud to be contemporary. It can stay faithful to its roots, provided it knows how to lighten up, update, speak to the present.

Diego Della Valle’s words go in the same direction. At a time still marked by economic and geopolitical instability, the chairman of Tod’s recalls the value of continuity and of Italian know-how. Crises pass, change form, return under other names. But if Italy keeps doing well what it does best, quality, product, manufacturing, taste and culture of detail remain a position of strength.

In this story one cannot forget the role of the Della Valle brothers, an expression of Italian excellence born within the culture of footwear manufacturing of the Marche region. Diego and Andrea Della Valle belong to that tradition of master shoemakers, leather workers, craftsmen and connoisseurs of material, where the shoe is never just a product, but the result of hand, experience, precision and entrepreneurial vision. In particular, Andrea Della Valle well represents this deep bond with the world of footwear and with a culture of making that turned local know-how into an internationally recognized language.

And perhaps this collection says exactly this: Italian Lifestyle is not a slogan. It is a system of values. It is the way a garment is thought, cut, sewn, worn. It is the ability to turn a material into experience, a detail into identity, a wardrobe into a story.

Tod’s keeps moving within this territory with consistency. And in a time when many brands seem to want to change skin every season, this fidelity to its own grammar becomes an even more recognizable value.