Milan Fashion Week starts this Tuesday evening until Monday 28 February with an explosive program that happens at the New York and London fashion weeks. Presenting 10 to 20 physical fashion shows a day, scattered around the city, the women’s ready-to-wear Fall / Winter 2022-23 season returns to its pre-pandemic frenzy as if nothing had happened. After two years of pandemic, a strong return of buyers and journalists from all over the world, excluding China, is also expected.
Nearly 170 events have been announced, compared to just over 200 in the most successful years. 67 fashion shows are scheduled (2 of which are hybrid, 57 in presence and eight in digital format), 77 presentations and nine special events. There are also several shows and presentations that are outside the official calendar. More than 90% of the shows are concentrated over five days, from Wednesday to Sunday.
“It is true that we do not have many days compared to Paris and the density of the program. Ideally we would like to have one more day, but the buyers are reluctant. We try to be concise and please everyone”, said the president of the Chamber of Fashion (CNMI ), Carlo Capasa. “Everyone wants to come to Milan! The demand for fashion shows is more than double that of the current calendar. With its 800 showrooms, the city is like an open-air fair. Even the big fashion houses that exhibit elsewhere have their showrooms here People come here to do business, “he added.
The “Made in Italy” stars will obviously be on the program: Fendi and Roberto Cavalli will parade on Wednesday, Max Mara, Prada and Moschino on Thursday. Missoni, Etro and Versace on Friday, Dolce & Gabbana on Saturday and Giorgio Armani on Sunday. The team is missing only Antonio Marras, who has chosen to bring his show to Moscow this season but will still organize a presentation in Milan. The Italian fashion capital can count, however, on the return of a slew of big names who had deserted its catwalks in recent seasons: Gucci, Bottega Veneta (unveiling the first collection by Matthieu Blazy for the brand), Plein Sport and Dsquared2, who is once again showcasing its menswear and womenswear separately during designated weeks.
Trussardi will unveil the very first collection of Serhat Isik and Benjami A. Huseby on Saturday as the brand’s new creative directors, the creatives who also lead the German avant-garde label GmbH. Ennio Capasa, founder of Costume National, will also mark his return on Tuesday evening with the debut of his new brand, Capasa Milano. Other highlights this week include Diesel’s first fashion show in the Lombard capital under the guidance of its new creative director, Glenn Martens, and Ferrari’s unveiling of its first ever high-end fashion line led by the designer. Rocco Iannone.
The spotlight is also on the cohort of new names of the week, including the very cool Japanese label Ambush, launched in 2008 by the Korean-American designer Yoon Ahn together with his partner Verbal (Japanese DJ, producer and hip-hop star ) who usually present their collections in Paris but have opted for a change of scenery this season. Another noteworthy participant in the women’s edition of Fashion Week is Franceco Ragazzi’s high-end streetwear brand, Palm Angels, which until now showcased its collections during men’s week. Both brands are part of the Farfetch brand portfolio of its New Guards group.Both brands are part of the New Guards Group, Farfetch’s manufacturing and distribution holding.
Another novelty to try is AC9, the brand launched in September 2019 by Alfredo Cortese. Graduated in chemistry and passionate about photography, the Sicilian discovered fashion while working in public relations for Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s N ° 21, who then created a capsule collection for the brand. His fluid style with Nordic rigor, crossed with a sexy Mediterranean flavor, was immediately appreciated and is currently distributed by Tomorrow London.
British-Nigerian Ineyie Tokyo James, who has just been selected for the semifinals of the LVMH Prize, has also embarked on a similar and atypical career path. After graduating in mathematics from Queen Mary University of London, she embarked on a career as a fashion designer, working for various international publications and brands, directing digital campaigns for the likes of Brioni, Iseey Miyake and Puma Black Label. In 2015 he launched the Rough UK digital publication monthly and moved to Lagos, where he founded his eponymous brand Tokyo James. After presenting his past collections in London, his bold and experimental creations joined the Milanese men’s calendar in January 2021.
A project by Aniye Records – DR
After graduating from the Academy of Fine Arts in Bologna, Andrea Adamo worked for Elisabetta Franchi, Roberto Cavalli, Zuhair Murad and Dolce & Gabbana, before taking the plunge in September 2020 with the launch of his own brand Andreādamo. The brand has established itself in recent seasons as a must for sexy and comfortable knitwear. Equally passionate about knitwear, Jezabelle Cormio will make her debut on the Milanese catwalks on Sunday. Graduated from the Royal Academy of Antwerp, she collaborated with several brands before founding her house, Cormio, in 2019 with a first collection for Fall / Winter 2020-21. She draws inspiration from the Austro-Tyrolean world to create playful garments with unexpected details using experimental knitting techniques.
Newcomer Aniye Records will also debut this season, unveiling 70 music-inspired looks designed as concert costumes on Sunday. The designer, Alessandra Marchi, grew up in the fashion industry as her father and her uncle, Vannis and Marco Marchi, are none other than the owners of the Liu Jo group. In 2000, Alessandra founded the Aniye By line in Carpi, which offers rock-inspired garments for unconventional women. Her new label will be distributed by Riccardo Grassi with the aim of reaching the top 100 multi-brand retailers in the world in its first season.
This week will be an opportunity to finally discover Onitsuka Tiger (the trendy brand of the younger sister Asics) and the futuristic Danish house Hans Kjøbenhavn, in the real world through their first physical shows in Milan, despite having participated through digital presentations since 2020.
The British outerwear brand Husky, owned by the Moschillo group, will mark its debut in the fashion show calendar but in digital format. As for the presentations, there is no shortage of new names: winner of the “Who is on next” 2020 contest Francesco Murano, Luciano Padovan, the South Korean brand from London Miss Sohee (which will be hosted in the spaces of Dolce & Gabbana), Balestra, Durazzi ( digitally), Cukovy, Andrea Incontri, Ramzen, Bloke, Sa Su Phi, Edoardo Gallorin, Tu Lizè and Vaishali S.
This stimulating Milan Week will also be an opportunity to discover new cultural places in the metropolis, such as the new epicenter of Fashion Week, the ADI Design Museum in Via Ceresio. The National Chamber of Italian Fashion moves its Fashion Hub and its numerous projects dedicated to sustainable and emerging brands to this location. Another noteworthy place is Mudec, a cultural center dedicated to the different cultures of the world in the Tortona district. From 24 to 27 February it will host highly creative research collections selected for the first time by White Milano as part of its “Beyond the Norm” initiative.