2 MIN READ
A few days before the show, Emmanuel Macron presented Nicolas Ghesquière with the Legion of Honour. At the Cour Carrée, Brigitte Macron was there too, a regular at Louis Vuitton shows. In France, fashion is still regarded as part of the country’s economic and cultural heritage. The runway, however, is another matter.
For Spring-Summer 2027, Ghesquière starts from ergonomics, from the relationship between body, garment and movement. The research shows above all in the fit: many pieces follow the body without constraining it, the jackets keep a constructed shoulder but lighten up everywhere else, the trousers fall long and soft. An ivory dress looks almost draped directly on the model; shortly after, a metallic tank layered over acid yellow meets sheer white trousers. It is one of those moments where complexity truly works, because it does not weigh down the figure.
The jackets, in my view, are among the best things in the collection. Ghesquière’s craft shows in the way he shifts a closure, opens a collar or builds a line that looks simple. The black lace-ups and ankle boots under the lightest dresses work too: they keep everything from becoming too delicate. Yellow comes back often, from butter to more acid shades, and gives energy to the creams, greys and browns that dominate much of the show.
Then come the less resolved looks. In the crumpled metallic pink, for example, the surface takes over and the dress ends up almost in the background. It happens elsewhere too: layering, ruching, appliqués and volumes pile up more than necessary. The jeweled visors are spectacular, impossible not to notice, but for that very reason in some looks they become more important than what is underneath.
The problem with the collection is an excess of ideas. When Ghesquière lets a good cut do the work, whether a jacket, a drape or a well-built piece of leather, the result gains clarity at once. When he insists, the garment loses something.
In several moments you want to take something away, not add something.
Gallery
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Alessandro Sicuro
Brand Strategist | Photographer | Art Director | Project Manager
Alessandro Sicuro Comunication
