MIU MIU, WHEN SPORTSWEAR BECOMES THE NEW CASUAL

Miuccia Prada starts from a simple fact: today sportswear has become the real contemporary casual, what people wear every day, mix and transform. Miu Miu observes this reality and starts from there, without erasing the sporty imprint but making it more sophisticated through technical tops, nylon, drawstrings, jeans, pleated skirts, jewel flowers, unexpected colors and details that immediately change the tone of the collection.

It is a mechanism that has always belonged to the brand: Miu Miu looks at the present, takes its most recognizable elements and puts them back into circulation in a different way, not so much with irony as with the cheekiness that distinguishes the youngest maison of the Prada group. On the runway different ages and ways of dressing coexist: very young models, men in women’s garments, more mature women, among them Olivia Colman. It does not read as a constructed provocation, but as the natural consequence of a wardrobe trying to tell what is happening today.

The collaboration with Wrangler also fits well into this story: denim held in place by laces, apparently simple constructions, sporty elements pushed almost to exaggeration. Nylon anoraks coexist with elongated tennis skirts covered in floral appliqués, while violet and light blue deliberately break the traditional colors of sportswear.

The result is not revolutionary and probably does not want to be. It is a focused, contemporary collection, very consistent with the moment. Miuccia Prada looks at what already exists, selects it and changes its perspective: this is where Miu Miu continues to work, in the ability to make desirable something that already belongs to the street.

Finally, an important reference remains: Manuela Pavesi. That way of mixing sporty, elegant, sophisticated and apparently casual still bears her imprint, and this is perhaps the most interesting passage: proof that a way of dressing built years ago can still feel surprisingly current today.

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