Paris, September 29, 2026. At the Fontaines du Trocadéro, with the Eiffel Tower in the background, Anthony Vaccarello celebrates his ten years at the helm of Saint Laurent, turning one of the most iconic places in the French capital into a monumental open-air set. Great golden chandeliers suspended above the runway, lights and reflections on the mirrored floor turn the Trocadéro into an expanse of gold.
A spectacular set, but not an end in itself. The great chandeliers recall the Salon Impérial of the Hôtel Inter-Continental, where Yves Saint Laurent began presenting his collections in 1976. Fifty years later, Vaccarello reclaims that memory and takes it outdoors, under the Paris sky, in dialogue with the Eiffel Tower. Gold moves from the set to the clothes: saharienne jackets and clean-lined suits, precious embroidery, sheer fabrics and a few touches of color. Then comes black, more rigorous in velvet and more sensual in the great drapes. After the glow comes the night, yet Saint Laurent remains perfectly recognizable.
And this is exactly what I keep appreciating about Vaccarello. In years when too many creative directors seem to feel the need to overturn a Maison in order to leave their mark, he has done something more difficult: being recognizable without erasing Saint Laurent. He has worked on an enormous legacy without becoming its prisoner and without tearing it down to prove he is new. The result is fashion that preserves seduction and rigor, yet clearly bears his signature.
For days there have been rumors about his possible departure from the Maison. At the moment there is no official confirmation. Let’s hope it isn’t true. At the end of the show, Vaccarello symbolically handed the keys of Saint Laurent to his son, a gesture that inevitably stays with you on an evening so charged with meaning.
Vaccarello has given a great deal to Saint Laurent and is one of the creative directors I continue to appreciate the most. This show proves it once again: respect for history, the ability to reinterpret it and, above all, a personal vision that has no need to erase what came before.
GALLERY
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Alessandro Sicuro
Brand Strategist | Photographer | Art Director | Project Manager
Alessandro Sicuro Comunication
