Stella McCartney in collaboration with Frank Stella, with whom she joined forces for her collection this season. “I love her minimalism and maximalism. It’s such a parallel with our brand: the very simple masculine side with the more explosive side. When you look at Frank’s work, he follows it quite well, ”she told the press.

In a tube atop the Center Pompidou that houses the artist’s work, McCartney presented a collection that interpreted Stella’s practice in both pattern and lines. A collage print taken from the Spectralia lithograph was employed in an oversized dress and a long sleeved dress with a slightly puffy skirt; a draped pleated dress and top featured elements of abstract Ahab.

Said top featured the sleeve that defines the McCartney collection: a stunning appliqué sewn around the shoulder in the manner of a flounced curtain, which was also featured on what the press release wittily coined “chintz dresses”. They set the tone for a collection that, not unlike Stella’s sculptures, was filled with unpredictable silhouettes, such as skirts apparently suspended from bikinis, jumpsuits woven with metal threads exploding in fringes, or cargo jumpsuits with puffed sleeves that might have be an artist’s uniform.

“He had to approve the whole collection, which is funny, because Frank is really moody and we love him for that,” McCartney said. “He tastes incredibly good. When he talks to him he has such a knowledge of art and design. And there were some things where he said “Uh, no”, but it was for such interesting reasons. I loved his point of view on why ”. The dialogue between Stella (sorry, I had to) often led to some really weird proposals, which were fun to see on the McCartney runway.

In the trendiest department, the reference silhouette of the season has also infiltrated this runway: the oversized jacket paired with an underwear element and a fitted leg, with the runner-up of the season just behind in the form of a leotard, which – in this case – underlined the sculptural premise of the collaboration. McCartney accessorized his collection with innovative technology that transforms grape skins into faux leather, “so all the wine you drank was made into a bag,” he said.

Asked about John F. Kennedy’s peace speech he played as guests took their seats and the final soundtrack with Plastic Ono Band’s Give Peace a Chance, McCartney, who made a donation to CARE, an organization that provides support in case of an emergency crisis in Ukraine, she said she had to face the contrast of organizing a fashion show right now: “It’s a very strange thing to do under the circumstances. We wanted to make a declaration against the war ”.

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Alessandro Sicuro  for ________  Sure-com America

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