Anthony Vaccarello , artistic director of Saint Laurent , has decided to take a very different path from the one followed in the last shows, rewarding moderation. A choice that meets the needs of the time we are living and that tells an all-female story of independence and radical visions. The reference to the anarchist poet Nancy Cunard is not accidental .
There are no bare legs, too mini mini dresses and neon colors, but creations that veer towards tailoring, enhancing the body with elongated and floating silhouettes. This is the case of the transparent petticoats under heavy and opulent coats, which emanate that French elegance, an iconic sign of the maison.
This time, the feminine reference code is a sophisticated, nocturnal mature woman, wearing leather jackets and broad-shouldered overcoats, furs (but cruelty-free), or even silvery bias-cut silvery diva dresses.
The game of rigor is also noticeable in the choice of black, which does not allow for exceptions, except in the case of neutral tones such as beige and white.
This new mysterious sensuality is also found in accessories, such as sunglasses that are also worn in the evening to protect themselves from the gaze of others, while jewels refer to Art Deco with geometric and angular shapes.