Trussardi: Urban royalty
Trussardi with the new designers, Serhat Işık and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, staged a first show.
Expressionism is alive and well in fashion and it has found its best contemporary interpretation at Trussardi whose new designers, Serhat Işık and Benjamin Alexander Huseby staged a wow-factor first show.
At first Serhat and Benjamin seemed unlikely choices for an Italian leather specialist, since they are founders of an avant garde Berlin brand GmbH, born on the city’s dancefloors. But one second after the last model exited they were revealed as an inspired choice.
Working overwhelmingly in palette of black and tiny doses of silver and white, the duo whipped up a series of great flowing dalmatikons in serge wool; puffer jackets cut like archers tunics; anthracite surcoats made of shaggy matelassé, cut in a chevron pattern.
They paired military punk pants with streamlined bodices; and sent out Maid Marian in Berghain mini coat dresses worn with buccaneer’s thigh boots.
“Techno feudalism,” commented Işık in a packed backstage, where the pair were deluged by compliments. Though at times theatrical, the clothes never looked literal, on the contrary truly modern and dynamic.
The debut was staged in Trussardi’s historic boutique next door to La Scala, with chunks of plasterboard cut out of ceilings and walls; cement and glue on the terrazzo floor. The audience of barely a hundred perched on compress board blocks, to witness an important fashion statement.
The cast even exited the boutique and walked along the pavement for 90 meters before re-entering the store, igniting at big burst of cheering from over 1,000 onlookers at the finale.
After a slew of designers have tried their hand at Trussardi in recent years – from Milan Vukmirovic to Umit Benan –the house has, finally, found the right pairing.
Their atypical backgrounds – Serhat is Turkish-German and Alexander Huseby is Norwegian-Pakistani– helping to give birth to a duo who have discovered a happy home in a Milanese house founded back in 1911.