N ° 21 designed by Alessandro Dell’Acqua, for autumn / winter 2022-2023, updates the male and female vocabulary. “For this collection” declares Alessandro Dell’Acqua, “I thought of many types of women, not one in particular, and starting from the tailoring I made the entire male part feminine with corsets and tight shapes at the waist”.
And a co-ed woman and man, in which the designer has taken up the bias cut, the bias cut with a 1940s construction of micro and macro sequins in champagne, black and forest green tones, creating tops, short and long dresses dress.
“The feminine part”, he emphasizes, “is made with typically English fabrics, such as bustiers and trompe l’oeil dresses. I wanted to create a contrast between feminine and masculine, which is very present on the catwalk, but placing it in a sartorial context, where there is less casual “.
The embroidered prints are all born from the idea of a Hawaiian pattern, which Dell’Acqua reimagined with “very heavy” couture embroideries and knitwear made mostly of openwork mohair and draperies.
On the catwalk, on the notes of Love is a punk by Louisahhh, Love is a batefield by Pat Benetar, and Vitamin C by Can, military-cut jackets and coats, dresses in crépon chiffon, hems in Harris Tweed fabric, transparencies and sweaters parade ‘ armor’. Special mention for knitwear, with jacquard workmanship enhanced by interventions in neoprene or unloaded mohair, light, almost impalpable.
Man N ° 21 instead prefers long skirts with large pleats and Hawaiian shirts to trousers, while the Loulou bag completes the look and low-heeled moccasins and metallic toe shoes, pumps and sandals with lacquered heels complete the look.
A collection that seems designed to leave behind stereotypes of all kinds and which is also a hymn to come back to life. “Now it seems to be returning to normal, there is a lot of excitement”, says the designer. “If we start again it would be a good thing for everyone. We have not had a devastating impact, we have always worked with online and we have never stopped. Of course, the moment was tough, but not devastating, and there is great enthusiasm for 2022 ”.