It was Kaia Gerber who opened the Fall-Winter 2022/2023.fashion show for Fall-Winter 2022/2023. A strong, coherent collection that reissues the iconic language of Prada , inspired by the pieces that have built the ideology of the fashion house, through codes and attitudes.
The Prada attitude returns imperiously in a severe tailoring, with essential coats and jackets that choose rounded volumes, important shoulders and noir colors, but revisited in a dialectical game through playful details, such as feathers, tufts and bands of synthetic fur on the sleeves and at the edges, and especially in the dichotomy with the aerial textures of the underlying parts.
“The materials, the embroideries and the garments – explain the stylists – are inverted and challenge each other to disturb and disturb”. This can be seen in men’s clothes that are transformed with the irruption of the feminine and in the sartorial manufacturing applied to soft pieces, which generates new shapes.
But also in the skirts, almost all triple-layered and interpreted by different fabrics, first rigid, then creased or ruffled and finally illuminated by glittering sequins or three-dimensional color embroidery. Leather, velvet, tulle take turns, to subtract weight from the waist down, lightly wrapping the body.
The decorations reappear on the total black technical outerwear, with ton sur ton crystals, or on the maxi bomber jackets in shades of green.
Another queen of the catwalk is the tank top, white, slim, with the triangular logo in plain sight. Iconic detail that returns in the form of a brooch and chain, a candidate to become a must-have.
And then the pullovers with geometric patterns, pleated and voluminous wool skirts, herringbone coats, aviator-style jackets and oversized trench coats, in bright colors, fuchsia above all.
Applauding in the front row Kim Kardashian dressed in green leather, sitting next to Francesco Vezzoli , Rita Ora and Mahmood .