MILANO FASHION WEEK THE FENDI SHOW LEAVES A MARK

Bella Hadid is  the first to walk the catwalk, with a chiffon slip dress combined with a fur bolero, long leather gloves and smoked glasses: the emblem of a sensual femininity that pervades the entire collection, designed by  Kim Jones  projecting archive inspirations into the contemporary world.

Jones amalgamates the atmospheres of Spring-summer 1986, characterized by geometric prints and tailored styling, with hints of the Fall-winter 2000 collection, in the name of a diaphanous lightness. On the catwalk, therefore, strength and softness alternate and overlap, thinking of a woman whose power is enhanced by clothes whose quality, value of materials and attention to detail are captured at first glance.

“I created a wardrobe beyond generations and occasions of use”, says Jones, specifying that the starting point was the image of  Delfina Delettrez , daughter of  Silvia Venturini Fendi , walking around Rome with a printed shirt stolen from her mother .

«A memory that brings me back to the history of my family – intervenes Silvia Venturini Fendi -. I saw these prints on myself and now Kim finds them on Delfina. After all, fashion is not something that ends in a moment: behind every model there is a lived experience ».

On the platform, chiffon coexists with tweed, masculine tailoring with jackets shaped on the body and what Jones defines as “transformative functionality” is staged, to indicate, for example, the blazer that becomes a tailored vest or the belt with pockets in which to store the smartphone.

Among the materials, mohair takes on the appearance of shearling, thanks to special processes, but the opposite also happens, that is to find a shearling that looks like mohair. There is also a hint of the Fall-winter 2022 men’s collection in the  O’Lock print , revisited in an ethereal and hyper-feminine key. “Fendi means bringing down divisions and barriers”, explains Silvia Venturini Fendi.

The accessories she designed are the triumph of craftsmanship. In particular, the 25 years of the iconic  Baguette are celebrated , the most current version of which is in cashmere, or in shearling-trimmed leather or in inlaid mink.

The jewels, designed by Delfina Delettrez, range from  ear cuffs  with oversized monograms to tennis bracelets, in which the crystals evoke the double F logo. Earrings and pendants refer to the  Master Key motif , “which opens all doors – says Delfina – even those of the archive “.