The presentation of Heron Preston’s second collaboration for Calvin Klein
“This season is about layering … and warmer materials,” Preston said, as he showed four sets of looks in an environment created to look like a downtown loft in a Zoom with editors, embargoed to this day. The brand has also released a new advertising campaign for Heron Preston for Calvin Klein: Season 2, which includes Savion Glover, a tap ace, who moves with great elegance in a combination of caramel denim from Heron’s latest Calvin ideas.
Since Calvin Klein no longer shows on the runways as of September 2018, this is the closest to a designer presenting new Calvin Klein ideas.
With his ready smile, Preston praised the fleece-lined jackets “so they feel like a silk glove”; he carefully pointed out tapered hoodies at the ankles and proudly presented ne-look carpenter pants with center seams on the front and back; inclined rear rings; closures with zip and rubber buttons.
“We did a million rehearsals to emphasize boxiness,” Preston said, as he walked the editors through the gender-neutral collection, shown in what he called “metagroups” of models. Remembering his youth in San Francisco when he wore waffle-style cotton t-shirts, which he himself wore again now that the weather has turned a little autumnal.
Also a sustainable collection, as many denim looks have been made from a recycled poly blend, made from recycled bottles.
“We’ve come up with this collection from head to toe – and we’ve even updated the socks to chunky wool – that you can wear around the house,” insisted 38-year-old Preston, a professional DJ who continues to design his namesake label inside New group of guards.
One of the best looks was the fuzzy alpaca sweaters which were again in a recycled blend. Nor was the designer afraid to take any risks in the color palette, showing off pale yellow tank tops, bras and biker shorts.
However, what was most striking was the relative simplicity of the concept. Underlined by Heron’s enthusiasm for her double layered hoodies – sewn together for colder days – and the slightly wider elastic band used in the ribbed Marky Mark men’s underwear and panties for girls.
Despite the modest novelty of the collection, the managers of the brand clearly have faith in this collaboration. Also allowing Preston to nibble on the logo and place it on an orange band, as he proudly pointed out, sitting next to Jacob Jordan , CK’s global chief trader, responsible for product strategy and new product initiatives.
“It was a great collaboration with Heron,” Jordan insisted, though he added, “but I like the idea of other people telling our story through their eyes. We are working on some things, but you will just have to wait and see. “
Asked to define Calvin Klein’s DNA in three words, Preston replied: “Sustainable comfortable and er; er, er, and let’s see which is the third … timeless”, taking 10 seconds to find the last word.
“Breathability” and “breaking the boundaries” were the words that Preston emphasized as the keys to this collection, which by its price is aimed at CK consumers.
Also, the amateur Zoom and modest novelty of the clothes once again raise the question, what exactly is the management strategy for Calvin Klein? There was a time when Calvin and his immediate successor Francisco Costa put on very influential fashion shows. They may have only sold in a few boutiques, but they’ve definitely set a fashion agenda and helped polish the reputation of America’s quintessential minimalist brand.
This approach fell apart with Raf Simons, during whose tenure ambitious plans to rival major European catwalk houses with a chain of global flagships collapsed when his designs simply failed to find an audience.
However, for later refusing to name a successor and abandoning the New York runway season; then handing over the reins of a great American fashion house to merchants and merchandisers, frankly seems like reductio ad absurdum.
Alessandro Sicuro ________ Sure-com America