The Dior creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, searched in the past stories of the house and recalled the episode of Marc Bohan, creative director who succeeded Yves Saint Laurent. Bohan brought the brand back to the level of its founder, obtaining great recognition from fashion magazines thanks to the Slim Look of 1961, which he wrote to l’Aurore on January 27, 1961: “It makes a complete change in fashion, just as The New Look did in 1947 ».
Maria Grazia Chiuri is connected to that first part of the Sixties, who in this post-pandemic moment draws up a reference lexicon that starts from graphic effects, up to materialize in a color block with a Bohanian aesthetic taste.
Yellow, green and red are used as precise colors to build geometries while marine, orange and framboise lead to imagine summer atmospheres.
A palette that is found in the set up of the show where the artist Anna Paparatti – historical companion of the gallery owner Fabio Sargentini and great animator of the Roman cultural scene since the 1960s – recreates a sort of “Great Game”, made up of playful subjects and mandalas which reflect the design direction of the collection.
Small jackets are tightened with a boxy fit, while coats are essential. Skirts, Bermuda shorts, shorts and dresses all become pieces of a variable combination for outerwear.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s work is to stay away from the stereotypes that the fashion narrative sometimes creates, subjugated by commercial power, transmitting without misunderstandings a current female story. The same one that was cleared through customs by Marc Bohan to bring the maison back into vogue, with that strong aesthetic taste recognized by everyone in the world, in the sign of change.
Alessandro Sicuro ________ Sure-com America