The MFW debut this season was at Cavalli’s home, where Fausto Puglisi staged a powerful and respectful homage to the allied home’s DNA with its new twist of urban nightlife.
Cavalli is a brand born on fabric prints, so Puglisi went into print overdrive – sending out gorgeous tiger prints – life-sized heads decorating flared trouser legs or rockstar jackets in a co-ed show. Before moving on to a series of leopard cat jumpsuits and bodysuits worn with zebra print jackets and dusters or cheetah print blazers.
“Roberto was a god with animal prints. Christian Dior was too, even with a real leopard in the 1950s. But in the 1970s Roberto had this American hippie charm that I loved, “Puglisi said, in a chaotic backstage.
At the time of his heyday, Cavalli was one of the three best-selling European designers in many American department stores and it is clear that under Puglisi the house is ready for renewed growth in the United States. But four years ago the house was teetering on bankruptcy.
However, after Puglisi presented his first collection in a video in July, starring Mike Tyson, he received large orders from the American fashion department Neiman Marcus.
Puglisi definitely likes tough chic: showing off a quarter of a punk rock cocktail all in black. Several looks on Wednesday’s show were anchored in leopard-print ankle boots with gold heels; claws, pincers and hooks were sewn onto perforated black T-shirts and punk boots. However, acknowledging the current obsession with comfort, Fausto also showed off heavy studded lion-headed sandals as the cast marched on rough pine boards laid on the historic palazzo’s terrazzo floor.
“Roberto Cavalli was all about the sexy woman, but I want to think of a separates wardrobe where every type of woman can find something. The beautiful flared skirts of the 50s; jacquard dresses; flared trousers that are so comfortable, ”said Sicilian Puglisi of the Florentine maison.
“There is no glamor without suburbs, everything rebellious comes from there. I don’t like the French Riviera, or the Italian Riviera, I like Brooklyn. This collection is for America, ”Puglisi emphasized.
His show, staged in front of a select audience of only 250 due to social distancing, also marked the third change of stylist since the founder retired in 2015. But, without a doubt, this was the first that he was instantly recognizable as Cavalli.