PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO – EDITION 109 COMES TO AN END

Here is the assessment of the 109th edition of the world’s leading event dedicated to menswear

Pitti Immagine Uomo 109 officially draws to a close, and Florence, as tradition dictates, hands over to Milan, where the calendar of Italian menswear shows begins. It is the natural transition of every January, yet before attention shifts entirely to Milan Fashion Week, it is worth pausing to read with clarity what this edition of Pitti has truly conveyed.

The overall assessment is positive in the most concrete sense of the term: Pitti does not retreat, it does not lose relevance, and it confirms its international role at a complex moment for the entire fashion system. Official figures point to a slight increase in exhibitors, growth in international buyers, and an overall attendance that—especially on the second and third days—appeared more substantial than at the previous winter edition. Not an explosion, but a solid holding pattern, which today is worth more than any special effect.

The clearest signal comes from abroad. International buyers are on the rise, confirming that Pitti remains an essential reference point for those seeking quality, vision, and careful selection in menswear. More fragile, as expected, is the Italian front: domestic buyers are fewer in number, reflecting the structural difficulties of retail and distribution within the national market. This dynamic does not concern the fair itself, but rather the overall health of the domestic system.

Walking through the pavilions, however, the most interesting takeaway is not numerical but cultural. This edition clearly highlighted the strengthening of craftsmanship, tailoring, and bespoke as a concrete response to the crisis facing major brands. At a time when many big names appear under strain—caught between restructurings, downsizing, and a loss of identity—Pitti gave space to realities focused on substance: cut, materials, construction, durability. Handmade is no longer a nostalgic narrative, but a strategic choice.

Outside, Piazza Grande did what it always does: peacocks, exaggerated looks, eccentric characters, at times almost cartoon-like. This is Pitti’s folklore, its most photographed and shared side, the one that fuels the event’s social-media storytelling. But stopping there would be a mistake. The true heart of Pitti Uomo 109 beat inside the pavilions, in the meetings between buyers and brands, in collections designed for a market increasingly demanding coherence, identity, and genuine quality.

Pitti Immagine Uomo 109 did not try to amaze at all costs. Instead, it chose to reaffirm its role, maintaining an authoritative position within a system in transition. In an era marked by uncertainty, this ability to remain central without chasing fleeting trends is perhaps the strongest signal Florence could offer.

Now the scene shifts to Milan. The lights of the runway shows turn on, and buyers are called upon to read the collections as they take the stage. Florence pauses, but it does not step back. Pitti exits the scene with the awareness of having done its job: to remain, firmly and convincingly, the international hub of high-quality menswear.