ROBERTO CAVALLI: PUGLISI TRANSFORMS GOLD INTO NARRATIVE LANGUAGE

At Milan Fashion Week, Roberto Cavalli showcased a clear choice: gold as a single vocabulary. Not a detail, not a parenthesis, but the rule of the discourse. It’s a coherence that is felt from the first look to the last and that finds meaning in the desire to transform light into matter, rather than mere ornamentation.

The sinuous catwalk, adorned with reflections, amplifies the effect: gold becomes space, atmosphere, perception. The body flows between fluid pleats and shiny surfaces, while the makeup remains luminous yet restrained, leaving the fabrics free to shine. The result, at first glance, is a visual continuum that constructs a coherent “world” around the viewer.

In detail, the collection explores variations: gold is liquid, satiny, creased, and wrinkled; at times it’s devoré, elsewhere it becomes a metallic crochet texture. Even daywear touches on subtle sparkles, as if to suggest that seduction can live beyond the red carpet. It’s a play on textures that avoids a dull effect and seeks rhythm within the monochrome.

The resulting imagery evokes distant eras and obsessions: King Midas , who transformed everything into gold until he was imprisoned in it, or the halls of Versailles during the time of the Sun King, when gold was not merely decoration but a declaration of power. Puglisi seems to take those lessons and bring them to the realm of fashion: if gold is a symbol of dominion, here it becomes a narrative language.

After a long sequence, the eye instinctively seeks a chromatic counterpoint. Here, Puglisi prefers not to allow it: no vanishing of color, no dramatic interlude. It’s a deliberate choice, which makes the sign legible and, at the same time, demands attention over a long period. The collection offers itself as a manifesto: either embrace it in its entirety, or observe it as an experiment in coherence, carried to its fullest extent.

In closing, the impression remains of a controlled theatrical gesture: gold not as a whim, but as an identity. While at times one feels the urge for a pause, it is precisely the generous measure of gold that becomes the defining note of this story: a clear, recognizable choice, one that is remembered without the need to raise one’s voice.