MILAN FASHION WEEK: DEBUT, RETURNS, AND TESTS OF STRENGTH

Milan Fashion Week opens today (September 23–29) with an impressive schedule: 171 events including 54 physical shows, four digital shows, 78 presentations, and thirty collateral events. It’s not just a number, but a measure of a system that continues to grow and renew itself, propelling the city to the center of the international scene.

The dominant theme is that of debuts. Louis Trotter designs his first collection for Bottega Veneta, while Simone Bellotti takes the creative reins at Jil Sander. But the greatest attention is on Gucci, which inaugurates a new season with Demna Gvasalia’s debut collection: the lookbook, designed by Catherine Opie and released as a surprise, already previews the atmosphere on the eve of the private event. Anticipation is also high at Versace: the collection bears the signature of Dario Vitale, the new artistic director.

Alongside the debuts, there’s no shortage of comebacks. After several seasons away, Boss, Calcaterra, Stella Jean, Phan Dang Hoang, and The Attico are returning to the Milanese runways, brands whose collections will demonstrate their ability to consolidate their identity and vision. These are joined by significant debuts on the women’s calendar, such as Dhruv Kapoor, Pierre-Louis Mascia, London’s Knwls, and the new Sa Su Phi, confirming Milan’s vocation as a platform for innovation.

As always, the Armani universe plays a central role. In addition to the Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani fashion shows, the city pays tribute to the recently deceased designer with an exhibition at the Pinacoteca di Brera. It’s a tribute that intertwines memory and the future, once again bringing the connection between fashion and culture to the forefront.

The week is also a time for celebrations: Giorgio Armani’s 50th anniversary, the Laura Biagiotti Foundation’s 60th anniversary, Calcaterra’s tenth anniversary on the calendar, and the celebrations for the first decade of activity of La Double J and Flowermountain.

Around the catwalks, the city lights up with events: the Black Carpet Awards return to the Teatro Manzoni, and the Afro Fashion Association presents “Afroditis: Creative Salon Series,” celebrating the Afro-descendant and multi-ethnic spirit. Sunday will see Milano Moda Graduate, a showcase dedicated to students from Italian fashion schools, a sign that generational change remains a key theme.

Economically, the numbers paint a picture of growth. According to Confcommercio, tourism revenues will reach €239 million, a 12.3% increase compared to 2024. Over 149,000 visitors are expected, nearly half from abroad: figures that confirm Milan’s attractiveness and its role as the global capital of the sector.

This edition, therefore, isn’t just a calendar of events: it’s a test. It will test the ability of new creative directors to convey vision, the solidity of major brands in preserving and renewing their identities, and the overall resilience of a system that, once again, seeks to demonstrate its ability to dictate the boundaries of international fashion.