PITTI 108: THE FUTURE OF MENSWEAR A CLEAR DIRECTION AND SENSE OF PURPOSE

 

 

Not Just a Slogan, but a Direction

As the banner proclaims, Futuro Maschile is not merely a slogan chosen by Pitti Uomo to frame its exhibition program — it’s a declaration of intent. It conveys a vision of the future that once again speaks to men with an authentic language, one made of proportion, functionality, identity, and gender. For too long, men’s fashion has chased after models that didn’t belong to it, losing its center of gravity. Today, however, it rediscovers the value of detail, construction, and a solid, essential, coherent aesthetic. This is not a nostalgic return, but a conscious step forward, with a newly recognizable identity.

Pitti’s exhibition formula remains unmatched: while fashion shows are not lacking, as in Milan, there is an added value that goes beyond. The booths remain open for three or four days, allowing for direct dialogue with producers, the chance to discover the stories, origins, and family dynasties that fuel the living fabric of Made in Italy. It results in what Americans would call authentic storytelling — and it resonates, because it reveals the genesis of an idea, its evolution, the challenges overcome, and the sacrifices made to achieve success. After all, those who love their work do not count the hours: they create, work, perfect — and almost without realizing it, they find themselves immersed in a path that generates value.

 

ISSEY MIYAKE AT VILLA MEDICEA LA PETRAIA

Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, Guest of Honor at Pitti Uomo 108, captivated Florence with a dual event: a fashion show and an installation in the gardens of Villa Medicea La Petraia. The Renaissance architecture gracefully framed the brand’s iconic pleated fabrics in a suspended, poetic atmosphere brought to life as the sun set. Soft lights and playful water effects completed the scene with fleeting rainbows and reflections.

The SS2026 collection reinterprets pleats in a contemporary key through pastel palettes — powder blues, dusty reds, chalky yellows — and technical fabrics like recycled nylon, reaffirming the brand’s commitment to sustainability. The garments are layered and understated in color: a long cocoa-toned vest over a loose-cut sand shirt, paired with flowing trousers in matching textures and volumes. In hand, the pleated fabric is held like a cloak or blanket — a symbolic gesture evoking care and belonging.

The neutral, organic palette enhances the refinement of the craftsmanship, harmonizing perfectly with the Medici garden. A meeting between man and environment, garment and habitat. A timeless aesthetic that gives new value to the essential.

 

CALABRESE 1924 | MASTERS OF ACCESSORIES AND MASCULINE ELEGANCE

From great-grandfather Eugenio to current heir Annalisa, four generations of taste, elegance, and sartorial knowledge. Ties, scarves, pocket squares, bags, and men’s swimwear: each creation is designed to complete an outfit with a gesture of style. A precious archive and a Neapolitan-rooted accessory culture renewed with every generation.

The fabrics — including hand-printed silks, light linens, and fine cottons — reflect a relentless pursuit of quality. Craftsmanship still follows the rhythm of tradition, with hand-finished seams and details that echo a heritage of excellence. A century’s worth of experience is visible in every fold, knot, and stitch: mastery that only time can teach. @calabrese1924

The men’s swimwear carries the energy of the Neapolitan school: vivid prints, bright colors, flawless details. A capsule for those who refuse to compromise on elegance — even under the sun. From tailoring to the beach, the DNA remains the same. Thanks to Tito Allegretto for introducing me to this extraordinary world.

 

ALBERTO LUTI AT PITTI 108 — REFINED CONTEMPORANEITY & WEST COAST URBAN STYLE  

A bold, evocative, and refined style. Alberto Luti arrives at Pitti Uomo 108 with a leather accessories collection that blends modern vision and pure craftsmanship. The belts, handcrafted through traditional dyeing and finishing techniques, reveal dedication and know-how.

The standout features are in the details: chiseled buckles, studs, exposed stitching, embroidery, embossed patterns, and intricate techniques that give each piece character and soul. Every belt tells a story rooted in the western world, yet urban in cut and Italian in spirit. The balance between strength and refinement defines this proposal: each accessory is rugged yet impeccably styled, conceived for a masculine aesthetic in evolution. The lived-in, molded leather is the heart of a creative and technical process.

Inside Alberto Luti’s booth, one can sense a true passion for the craft and the coherence of someone deeply familiar with the material they shape.

 

MANIFATTURA CECCARELLI — EXCELLENCE AND TECHNIQUE

Giuliano Ceccarelli, founder of the Forlì-based brand launched in 1998, embodies the evolution of the Italian outdoor jacket, rooted in solid production know-how and a vision that merges functionality, sartorial flair, and high-performance materials. Every sweatshirt and jacket is built to last — to be lived, over time.

Structural stitching, well-thought-out details: treated wool, paraffin-coated canvas, smart linings. Each garment reflects deep knowledge of industrial processes — a technical skill that never feels cold, but always serves style. The design is streamlined yet distinctive, with engaging sport fabrics expressing a conscious, understated aesthetic. Nothing is left to chance; everything is measured to embody a precise idea of quality. A sincere, honest manufacture that speaks to men who know how to read a garment — and recognize its substance at first touch.

 

ROY ROGER’S – STORIES OF DENIM AND ITALIAN IDENTITY

At Pitti Uomo 108, Roy Roger’s continues to tell its unique story, where American soul intertwines with Italian vision. Born from admiration for a 19th-century Californian denim craftsman, the brand is rooted in a legacy of workwear overalls, authenticity, and innovation. Today, this heritage is reinterpreted with a contemporary spirit, through garments with bold character and modern cuts. From chambray to suede, college knitwear to utility accessories, every piece strikes a thoughtful balance between past and present. Fabrics are meticulously selected, washes precisely crafted, and finishes honor a tradition that became a benchmark. It’s not just about style — it’s about values: consistency, quality, and a strong identity that stands the test of time. Roy Roger’s proves that denim can still tell new stories while remaining true to its origins. A virtuous example of how an American icon, filtered through Italian ingenuity, continues to evolve.

 

PETRONIUS 1926 — A CENTURY OF ELEGANCE, FREELY DRAWN

Petronius 1926 is more than a historic name — it is a story woven with elegance, artisanal mastery, and family continuity. Founded in 1920s Milan by Luigi Wollisch in his Via Rugabella workshop, it was dedicated to the handmade tie. Since then, generations have preserved and refined that original vision: to make refinement a daily ritual.

The silks, carefully selected from the best Como mills, flow soft and luminous. The patterns express taste, culture, and attention to detail. Each creation is made to last, accompanying men with understated elegance in their everyday rituals. Petronius doesn’t follow trends — it moves through time with coherence, remaining true to a measured, recognizable aesthetic. Ties, pocket squares, and scarves become silent symbols of distinction — subtle gestures that speak volumes. This is the art of the accessory as identity: discreet, sophisticated, and authentic. A brand that has made masculine detail a cornerstone of the elegant wardrobe, where form and substance meet in harmony.

 

BENHEART — A STORY WRITTEN FROM THE HEART

Benheart is a name that carries its own destiny: it merges “Ben,” from founder Hicham Benmbarek, with “heart.” A play on sounds that speaks of passion, authenticity, and vision. It reflects not only his personal journey, but also how he brings every creation to life — with his mind, hands, and most of all, his heart.
His story begins in a small artisan belt shop in Florence. From there, Ben designs, builds, experiments. He creates leather jackets, sneakers, bags, backpacks, hats, and accessories — each item bearing his personal touch, from concept to finish. Through talent and determination, he has built an international brand now present in cities like Florence, Milan, Rome, Lucca, Verona, Beverly Hills, Tokyo, Dubai, Strasbourg, Riyadh, and Kuwait City.

The secret of his success? Disarming simplicity paired with extraordinary creative energy. I’ve seen him work with tireless dedication — and the results speak for themselves.

 

TITO ALLEGRETTO — A GUIDE THROUGH EXCELLENCE

Among the most significant moments at Pitti Uomo 108, many are thanks to the insight and expertise of Tito Allegretto. We toured the exhibitors together, and through his experience and network, I gained access to production perspectives and brand visions that often elude an outsider’s eye.

Tito knows Italian craftsmanship deeply, having worked directly with many of these brands, offering consulting services and developing tailoring projects with his unique method and unmistakable style.

You can tell by the way he moves through the stands: he enters naturally, observes, touches, handles the fabrics, studies the seams and finishes. He instantly recognizes the details that truly define a brand. And as he does, greetings, hugs, and signs of respect flow in: artisans, entrepreneurs, and designers who recognize him and await his presence. Because Tito isn’t just a visitor — he’s a qualified interlocutor, able to read a product and enhance it, connecting creativity and market, form and substance.
Also noteworthy was his presence at the special showroom in Via dei Benci 4, where he presented collaborations with Sartoria Caracciolo. A curated, coherent space where style, storytelling, and craftsmanship conversed with authenticity.

In recent times, his daughter Giulia Allegretto has also stood out. At this edition of Pitti, she unveiled three garments entirely designed and produced by her. With a sensitive and personal vision, Giulia works alongside her father in shaping the women’s line, helping reinterpret sartorial aesthetics through a contemporary feminine lens. A promising signal of continuity and future development.

 

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