Setchu is a Japanese term that represents the meeting point between Eastern and Western cultures, an idea that Satoshi Kuwata, designer and founder of the brand, has translated into a collection capable of transforming dualism into complementarity. Chosen as Guest Designer for the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo, Kuwata brought his unique vision to the catwalk, enchanting the audience with a show that is a perfect balance between tradition and innovation.
Setchu’s debut at the Biblioteca Nazionale di Firenze – a historic institution with an immense cultural heritage – turned out to be a tribute to the philosophy of origami. “I want less, and less than that” is the principle that guides Kuwata, born in Japan, educated on Savile Row and now Milanese by adoption. This search for essentiality is reflected in a collection that goes beyond minimalism, focusing on the construction of each individual outfit.
The Fall/Winter 2025-26 collection starts from a simple and powerful concept: the square. Folded and refolded, this two-dimensional element transforms into three-dimensional garments. Safari jackets, coats, shirts and blazers evolve thanks to mountain and valley pleats, becoming tangible symbols of the “very Setchu” approach that combines functionality and creativity. Among the most surprising details, the shortenable jackets and tailcoats with tails that integrate inside the garments, demonstrate the technical and artistic ability of the designer.
Kuwata chooses dense, tactile fabrics, accompanied by a pared-down palette of black, white and grey. “The colours recall black and white TV and newspapers,” explains the designer. However, the collection is not without surprising visual details: the polychrome silk jacquard kimono-style revisits The Tale of Genji in a homoerotic key , while bold details such as penis-shaped octopuses, inspired by erotic manga, are transformed into sumptuous lace.
Three bespoke pieces made by Davies & Sons, the oldest tailor on Savile Row, marked the key moments of the day: a morning suit, a blue double-breasted blazer with gold buttons and a tailcoat. Each piece incorporates the origami folds that characterize the brand, combining English tailoring excellence with Japanese philosophy.
To crown the show, a poetic foray into the world of Setchu: tatami-covered windows, with 19 panels arranged in a circle like visual haiku, celebrate the meeting between East and West.
With Setchu, Satoshi Kuwata not only celebrates his cultural heritage, but reworks it through a contemporary vision, creating an unprecedented dialogue between two seemingly distant worlds. A debut that confirms the designer as one of the most interesting voices on the international fashion scene.
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