Although he is quite old, one of the last pioneers of that fashion that made Made in Italy great in the world, Giorgio Armani, tends to do more and better. On Thursday evening he presented a lively and colorful fashion show for the Emporio line, followed by a wild party to celebrate the collection.
The invitation, the set, the runway and the backdrop were all in black and white, as was much of the collection, which then exploded into a riot of colour in the grand finale.
The show kicked off with Emporio classics: Indian rajah pants, Nehru collar jackets, vests, dhotis and headwear, in a palette of ecru and pale grey. A few years ago, during the obsession with streetwear, these pieces might have seemed out of fashion, but today, in the age of discreet luxury, they look glamorous and brilliant.
Little by little, Armani introduced Asian floral motifs and accessories, straw hats, coolie pants and Mao shirts. It is often forgotten how much Asia influenced Armani and how well this influence was received. In a way, just as Bill Clinton was called the first African-American president for his connection to African-American culture, Armani could be considered one of the greatest Asian designers for his sensitivity to those cultures.
In a mixed-gender show, she proposed loose-fitting men’s suits, with pleated pockets, very much in vogue today. Many of them in ecru or white, in line with the invitation and the background, which recalled a 2000 campaign with a delicate image, the essence of the Emporio style.
Applauded by a stellar front row, including Achille Lauro, singer-songwriter Khalid, actress Sveva Alviti, Esmé Creed-Miles, Zhou Yutong, Kaka with his wife Carolina Dias, as well as six Italian gold medalists from the Paris Olympics.
Finally, Armani appeared with his sister Silvana and his trusted collaborator Leo Dell’Orco. The applause was amplified by the arrival of Nicola Lamorgese, head of the Emporio men’s line, and Marco Brunello, head of the women’s line, who together with Armani have shaped fashion for over half a century.
Considering their key role in Armani’s influence on global fashion, they deserve to be recognized among the world’s top designers. In an industry where few would share an ovation, Giorgio, in his extraordinary maturity, is proud to share his triumph.
In a busy week, Armani also reopened the renovated Emporio flagship store on Via Sant’Andrea, plastering hundreds of bus stops and billboards across Milan with the news. Not bad for someone who has just crossed the 90-year mark. This champion is not ready to leave the ring just yet.
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