Cavalli’s spring summer 2025 collection, designed by Fausto Puglisi, marks a turning point for the brand. Not only does it break away from the roots of its founder, Roberto Cavalli, but it also proposes a new vision that embraces the suggestions of the Mediterranean, in particular those of the Strait of Messina, Puglisi’s homeland.
From the very beginning of the show, it is clear that the designer has chosen to start from a deeply personal inspiration. “When I started working on this collection, I was in Messina,” explains Puglisi, “fascinated by the walls of the houses rebuilt after the earthquake of 1900.” These architectural elements, with their natural colors and rough textures, are reflected in the creations: dresses in crinkled linen, overcoats with fishing nets and, of course, the prints that recall the high waves and breathtaking sunsets of the Strait.
The collection moves between elegance and a rough charm, keeping intact the fil rouge that links each piece to the marine atmospheres and the Sicilian light. However, Puglisi demonstrates the will to distance himself from the past, marking a new direction for Cavalli. His vision of the Mediterranean no longer starts from Saint Tropez, as it was for Roberto, but from Scilla and Charybdis, symbols of a more raw and ancestral force.
The celebration of Roberto Cavalli, who passed away last April, could not be missed. At the end of the show, some archive pieces were brought to the catwalk as a tribute to the iconic founder: slip evening dresses from 2000, a mermaid dress in leather and feathers from 2003, and the unmistakable feathered dresses from 2004. A tribute that brought back to life the memory of a luxurious and bold fashion, while Cavalli’s own voice resounded in the room: “I don’t participate in the party, I am the party”.
The show, applauded by icons such as Naomi Campbell and Eva Cavalli, marks the beginning of a new chapter. Fausto Puglisi has shown that he knows how to honor Cavalli’s legacy without being a prisoner of it, giving a new freshness and authenticity to the brand.
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